We'll always have Paris
Paris during the holidays is always a good idea.
Happy New Year, friends!
I started writing this on the plane back from Paris with the grand idea of finishing a post on my 11-hour flight. But because the wifi decided not to cooperate, I ended up taking a snooze and watching a few episodes of Lessons In Chemistry. It made me feel so giddy until the end of episode two (I haven’t read the book), which left me devastated that I had to watch Pedro Pascal as a genius superhero in a blue and white leotard to make me feel good again.
A trip recap is one of my favorite things to write because you get to relive those moments again. I’m going to be cheesy for a sec… I feel incredibly lucky and grateful to have spent Christmas in my favorite city in the world. And with a partner-in-crime who enjoys and appreciates the same things as I do. 2025 was a rough year — I think for most people — so ending it on a really high note makes me feel optimistic about the year ahead.
Before we get into the Paris moments, I wanted to say thank you. For your support and for the space you’ve given me in your inbox — it’s a privilege I don’t take for granted. Whether you’ve been reading my letters for a while now or have recently found my Substack, thanks for being here. xx
This letter will get cut off in email, read on the app for a better experience.
The light in Paris this time of year is f*cking magical. I have a gazillion pics of random buildings and streets trying to capture that light, but I don’t think a single photograph could ever do it justice.
This was the sky on Christmas Eve, the day we arrived. We spent the afternoon with OFELIA and her husband, meandering through the Christmas market in the Tuileries, truffle pasta and mulled wine in tow. Then we strolled along the Seine to take in the views. A perfect Christmas Eve if you ask me.
I got to hang with OFELIA three times while I was in town, which was truly a dream. One evening we grabbed dinner with her and her husband, and we ended up shutting down this izakaya in the Marais (highly recommend), not realizing we’d been there for three hours just yapping away. A true laissez-faire moment. There’s no rush, you’re simply there to be present, and to enjoy the company and conversation. These are the moments I live for.
On Christmas day, my partner and I wandered around the city and stumbled upon Le Bistro Marbeuf in the 8th. It’s the kind of place where you’ll see locals and tourists eating side by side — vibrant neighborhood spot that serves authentic French cuisine with a touch of Lyonnaise influence. This bistro was not on my radar at all, but it’s been added to my list of places to visit again.
That evening we grabbed cocktails and hors d’oeuvres at Bar Joséphine in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. This place is a vibe. Highly recommend for those nights when you want to get dressed up, have a stiff drink, and indulge in some of the best people-watching in the city. It’s probably best if you make reservations (we didn’t), but we easily secured a table on Christmas evening.
I took advantage of the fact that it’s Christmas and I’m in Paris, so I packed some of the special vintage pieces I’ve acquired in the last year. They’ve been patiently waiting for their moment to shine. First, a Schiaparelli pillbox fur hat I scored on Etsy for $80. I think I wore it better than Lord Faarquad, right?
And just before the trip, I got very lucky and found a velvet mandarin jacket with these playful puffed shoulders and intricate frog closures. It’s in perfect condition and fit me like a glove. $95 on eBay, baby.
Last but not least, this mid century rhinestone waterfall brooch on Etsy for a whopping $36. I went all in, and wore all of them in one night. You only live once, as they say.
Another cocktail spot we loved is Bar Nouveau in the Marais. If you appreciate the art of cocktails, an intimate setting where you’re on first-name basis with the bartender and staff, plus sublime architecture and design, I’d say it’s worth lining up for, even in the cold. Sara, our lovely host, served us hot tea with honey while queuing and shared helpful updates on the seating situation. An absolute gem.
Rubirosa’s was at the top of my shop list, and it did not disappoint. French jewelry designer Lauren Rubinski’s brainchild, visiting Rubirosa’s felt like being a kid in a candy store. You won’t find sad, beige ~quiet luxury~ clothes here. They have shirts, pajamas, boxers, cotton cashmere polos, wool v-necks in an array of bright, joy-inducing colors. Sizing is unisex for most pieces including their leather slippers. I walked away with a poppy red polo that immediately called my name.
The place was packed the day after Christmas. Lauren and team were hard at work making sure every person was getting help. I got to chat with Lauren, and she’s the sweetest, loveliest person ever. She was wearing head-to-toe Rubirosa’s — a navy wool v-neck layered over a lilac shirt, tucked into a pair of grey New York Yankees joggers, croc leather slippers with cobalt socks. I made a mental note of that sock + loafer color combo.
Preclothed in the 6th was number 1 on my vintage shop list, and it blew my socks off. The whole experience felt like I was in a private gallery, getting a preview of iconic archival pieces. I’d imagine MK&A’s personal vintage collection is quite similar to what you’d find at this place.
Raphael, my shop angel, was the most knowledgeable, kind, and helpful sales associate I’ve ever encountered in my life. He knew every single detail about each piece. Everything in the shop is a piece of art. I’m talking Margiela and Galliano Hermes, Phoebe Philo Celine, Elsa Peretti just to name a few. They also carried a handful of rare Equipment silk blouses that blew my mind. I wish everyone can touch it because you can really feel a stark difference between the quality of silk from the 80s/90s and the silk we know today.
Raphael mentioned the selection in the showroom is just the tip of the iceberg. When he noticed I was ogling over an asymmetrical hammered silver collar, he excused himself to pull a few more pieces from the back. He came out with an insane selection of silver necklaces — including the iconic Elsa Peretti mesh bib and a silver collar with a hanging red stone that he claimed was made by Picasso’s jeweler.
On my way out, Raphael noticed my watch, which he’d mistaken for vintage designer (I forgot the name.) I left Preclothed feeling like it was all just a dream. Obviously, I’ll be back next time I’m in Paris.
There’s a few other vintage shops that I thought were worth paying a visit. Recommended by OFELIA in the Marais: Fancy Vintage, which had plenty leather and fur jackets, and Revoir, which has a great selection for women and men. I scored a pair of fur-trimmed Agnelle leather gloves for ~80 euro.
I also came across Kanelle Vintage (unique selection of cotton nightgowns and antique satin dresses — think Doen but actually vintage) on Rue de Turrene in the Marais, which is a goldmine for vintage shops.
I also stumbled on Carmin Vintage while wandering the streets of Montmartre. This place has an A++ curation. I noticed that most of the people shopping are locals.
A few other random musings about Paris shopping:
Vintage shops that have been on my list for a while, but didn’t get a chance to visit: Skat Vintage and ALE, both recommended by my friend Sarah Palmer.
I wish I had the chance to come back to Astier De Villatte to pick up this book.
Pharmacy Hot Tip: Do not go to City Pharma — it’s a zoo. Go to Pharmacie du Forum Des Halles or smaller pharmacies all over the city.
I’m endlessly curious about what people are wearing in real life in different cities, so I’ve got a street style trend report for you.
The girls are wearing fur coats all over the city. Most look real and vintage. Fur accessories and leopard print are also in.
I did not see a single pair of barrel leg jeans. It’s either straight or wide-leg jeans paired with boots, sneakers (Adidas and Salomon’s), or loafers.
Parisians love to wear pops of color against a neutral base. Big scarves and beanies in bright colors. I wish I’d snapped a pic of this woman wearing a gorgeous navy wool coat, chunky black boots, and a cozy orange beanie.
I also spotted those Kujten bandana scarves on tourists, mostly. And you know that sweater-over-the-shoulder layering trick fashion Substack is obsessed with? That was not a thing in Paris.
Here’s a masterclass in refined athleisure brought to you by the chicest mom in Paris, Sarah Palmer. We got to catch up over Mamiche sandwiches and coffee, and it was one of the highlights of my trip.
My MVPs from the trip: the three coats I packed (two from Toteme: one black wool + one grey wool with shearling collar, and a vintage fur coat), Row soft eel leather loafers, The Only Jane Sally jean (wore them almost every day), a pair of black cords from Toteme (so comfy and warm, I wore them on the flight home), Dries suede sneakers, Khaite Ona boots (v comfy, scored on Vestiaire for over 65% off, thanks to Taylor Barnett), Yaser Shaw scarf, J.Crew cashmere beanie, and long leather gloves from Agnelle.
I highly recommend a visit to Musée Marmottan Monet if you’re an Impressionist fan. It houses the biggest collection of Monet’s work, including the historic Impression, Sunrise painting that essentially pioneered the Impressionist movement. Berthe Morisot’s work (she’s the first woman Impressionist and Manet’s muse), is another good reason to visit.
What I loved most about this museum: viewing Monet’s rough “drafts” of the iconic Nymphéas at the l’Orangerie, the evolution of his garden in Giverny, and seeing how cataracts affected his perception of depth and color in his later work. One of my favorite reads on Substack, Cool Stories About Art has a post about this if you want to nerd out.
The John Singer Sargent exhibit at d’Orsay was such a treat. There’s a reason why he’s considered one of the greatest portrait artists of all time.
The street art scene in Montmartre is also worth checking out, if that’s more your vibe.
I can’t finish this letter without telling you about the food I enjoyed on this trip.
Places I’d happily come back to over and over again:
Mamiche: a boulangerie beloved by locals and tourists
Tarantula: excellent Mexican-inspired food, vibes are top-notch
Mariage Freres: I came in to buy some tea to bring home, but glad I stayed for brunch and afternoon tea.
Le Mary Celeste: fave wine bar in town
Hot Tip: you can get the famous Chez Janou chocolate mousse at Le Petit Italien, right by Place Des Voges. They won’t seat you though if you only want dessert. The food is excellent, so don’t skip it. Also, the duck at Le Petit Marche (currently closed for reno) is the best duck I’ve ever had. These are my beloved neighborhood spots in the Marais.
Don’t you love the Onas?? SO comfy I’m sooo glad you got them!!
The Schiaparelli fur pillbox???? $80??????!!!!!!!