How to shop preloved like a pro (part II)
secondhand shopping tips from some of Substack's expert treasure hunters
Last month, I participated in a community-led tag sale and got to sell some items I’d been holding onto. It’s really satisfying to watch someone discover a piece from your wardrobe and seeing them get excited right there in person — that full-circle moment when something sitting in your closet finds someone who actually wants to wear it.
The whole thing made me think about why we’re drawn to certain pieces in the first place. What was going on in our lives when we decided we needed that particular thing? And what changed that made us ready to let it go?
There’s something beautiful about this cycle. Clothes move through different chapters of our lives and then find their way to someone else’s story. It made me realize that secondhand shopping isn’t just about finding good deals or being more sustainable (though those are great benefits). It’s about participating in this ongoing conversation between strangers through the things we choose to keep and let go. Every piece has lived a life before it gets to you, and hopefully it’ll have more lives after.
And since many of you loved the Tips We Send Friends letter on secondhand shopping back in April, I figured it was time for part two. I tapped another group of expert treasure hunters on Substack to spill their secrets...
Meet the treasure hunters:
- of Night Shade
- of Saved for Future Reference
- of Thanks It’s From
- of Semi-Sustainable
- of Really Good Vintage
This letter might be too long for email — if it gets cut off, just hop over to the Substack app to read the whole thing.
How did your preloved shopping obsession begin?
Melanie: It honestly started out of necessity. I've always loved beautiful, well-made designer pieces, just not the price tags that come with them. I remember being 14 years old and looking up Marc Jacobs on eBay, when I was making 5 euros an hour ironing my neighbors' clothes. Preloved shopping felt like this secret loophole: I could find the brands I loved for way less, and the thrill of the hunt made it even more fun. Over time it became a habit. And now that it's also a more sustainable way to shop, it just makes sense.
Claire: We wrote about this on Future Reference’s Substack, but when I was a teen, my mom took me to an epic estate sale in Dallas (it was, in fact, very Dallas the TV show), and I found a pair of silver Prada heeled sandals that I have now worn to dozens of events over 20 years. I’ve been on eBay (and every other platform that’s popped up) since.
Nora: I actually think I started with home decor and an old camera. My roommate at the time (and close friend) was finding pieces for our apartment on eBay, and it really inspired me. Once I started spending more time on eBay, that's when I realized I didn't need to just limit myself to home goods. I also have another close friend with an incredible vintage shop in New York City (@heartandlous) and every time I walk in, I'm inspired by her eye.
Tina: It started 11 years ago when I came across a magazine article about this website called The RealReal, selling pre-owned designer fashion at accessible prices. I’m very much an aspirational shopper, and remember immediately throwing down my magazine and running to my laptop to take a look. This was my first purchase in March 2014 — I cringe at the Rag & Bone sweatshirt dress, but I’d wear the Elizabeth and James dress in a heartbeat if I still had it today.
Maggie: I started thrifting when I was in high school but was mainly shopping for the shock value items: the ugliest sweaters, gaudiest 80’s dresses. But when I was 19, I was hired at a vintage store and that blew the doors wide open. There was no un-swallowing that red pill. The best part? We got a big discount every month if we hit a sales goal so my closet very quickly became only vintage, ever. I still daydream about that job (and still have many pieces from them!).
It started 11 years ago when I came across a magazine article about this website called The RealReal, selling pre-owned designer fashion at accessible prices. - Tina Boetto, writer of Semi Sustainable
What’s the best secondhand shopping advice you wish someone had told you when you started?
Melanie: eBay is full of hidden gems, you just have to know how to look. I also learned by making mistakes — and no, shoes a half size too small don't stretch out to be comfortable! Also, don't sleep on the less obvious brands or vintage pieces — some of my most precious items are untraceable pieces that came up late night during an Etsy rabbit hole.
Claire: That just because it’s a good deal doesn’t mean you need it. There are some pieces I’ve bought over the years that were great deals but don’t fit realistically into my wardrobe or feel very me when I put them on. With so much great inventory out there, it’s worth considering what you will really either adore or wear into the ground.
Nora: Don't spend money you can't afford to lose. Also, there will always be something else.
Tina: First, know your measurements. Every brand is sized differently and every fashion era has its own fit, which can make label sizing meaningless. Think today’s oversized blazers compared to the shrunken silhouettes of the 2010s. I’m especially attuned to rise and waist measurements since I’m long waisted and only wear high rise pants. Try measuring your best fitting pair of pants to get a sense of your preferred waist, inseam, and rise.
Second, think about how much time and money you're willing to invest in mending. I’m still learning this today. I just got a total steal of an Anine Bing dress for a big life event. The TRR condition said "moderate pulling", which I thought meant fabric snags, but turned out to be prominent unraveled stitching at the neckline and armhole. I'm currently at five visits between the seamstress and fabric store to track down the right thread, and the repair is going to cost almost as much as the dress. If I had to do it over again, I'd wait for "excellent" condition to save myself the time, although I'm happy to give it a second life.
Maggie: Starting my Substack made me realize how rich a gravy eBay is! Like every good secondhand shopper will tell you, you need to know your measurements. But what I wish I knew long ago is the utmost importance of knowing yourself and how you like things to fit. You can be a 36-inch bust and love an oversized button down, but do you want a little wiggle room or do you want to swim in it? What are the measurements of your preferences? Cotton fits differently from silk — what are your preferred measurements per fabric? That's where neophytes become professionals. Once you master that, you can shop eBay (and any site) with ease and aplomb.
What are your top 3 saved searches right now?
Melanie: Vintage Chloe always, Castiglioni Cocoon Lights, and I'm also looking for a specific belt from Isabel Marant from ten years ago! Good luck to me :)
Claire: Donna Karan and Jil Sander dresses, vintage evening jackets from Armani, St. John, coats under 1k
Nora: Taxco Sterling Silver Jewelry, tile made in Spain, ceramics made in Portugal
Tina: Isabel Marant belts: I’m on the lookout for the Rica studded belt in black; Frankie Shop pants and jackets: I’m in constant search mode for the Girona blazer in cornsilk and the Bea Pant in light grey to match my blazer; Nanushka: One of my oldest saved searches since it’s a top five brand for me.
Maggie: For myself: I'm not a big dress person so I'm on the lookout for a good linen pant set for summer, and I have a bunch of summer weddings so I'm looking for my perfect black jumpsuit. For my store: I'm always on the hunt for more fish jewelry!
Like every good secondhand shopper will tell you, you need to know your measurements. But what I wish I knew long ago is the utmost importance of knowing yourself and how you like things to fit. - Maggie Lanham, owner of Really Good Vintage
Tell us about your ultimate vintage or secondhand score.
Melanie: My pink Celine dress, Phoebe Philo era, is definitely my ultimate vintage score. I got it for ~ $600 in 2019 and wore it at my sister's wedding in Morocco that year.
Claire: This Brunello Cucinelli dress I found a week before my civil ceremony. Other than that, my huge Balenciaga city work bag that I use almost ever day to schlep my laptop. It’s 10+ years old an is an absolute workhorse.
Nora: Vintage Gucci brown oval sunglasses Italy FRAMES ONLY ($27.22) — I then took them to an optical store and had lenses put in (which I think was about $45).
Tina: I’m more of a contemporary secondhand shopper and my best 2025 score is the Nanushka Mystique blazer. It layers well over another jacket (key since we’ve reached peak wind in San Francisco), has big pockets, and is incredibly soft. It also has subtle Western-inspired details, which puts me right on track with 2025 resale trends. This jacket is already a major player in my wardrobe. I’m at 21 wears and counting according to Indyx, making it worth the spend.
Maggie: A vintage dark chocolate suede Loewe jacket from the late 40’s/early 50’s that I found at a Goodwill in Brooklyn for SEVEN DOLLARS. I styled and sold it last year but it remains my biggest, "pinch me" score. (editor’s note: holy sh*t)
Spill your go-to hack for your favorite resale platform.
Melanie: I check The RealReal pretty religiously at 10am and 7pm (ET), first with a quick glance at my searches — right now my top three are Aflalo, Chloe, and crochet — I like to have a mix of brand and either texture or category specific. Then I do a more general browse at the New Arrivals but filtered by my sizes and sorting by "Most Obsessed". Rarely do I add to cart and purchase immediately — it's exciting when it happens. I sell all my clothes with TRR so I have about $5000 in credits there. I am excited to find the right thing to spend it on.
Claire: Most of my searches for specific items are saved on Gem. Otherwise, The RealReal is where I go when I am tired of social media. I have a single saved search for contemporary brands that I like, for example, Peter Petrov, By Malene Birger, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Eliou. I will scroll those and because there is generally less inventory than luxury brands you can find some amazing deals.
Other than that, I peruse a lot of designer + category searches that I know I would always consider. I am constantly on the hunt for Jil Sander dresses, Donna Karan Skirts, Phoebe Philo for Celine Shoes. I rarely shop for a specific event, but more collect pieces I feel strongly about as I go. Also, always look for off-season items — the best time to buy insane coats is in the summer! Just set a price ceiling and see what comes in.
Nora: I spend most of my time on eBay, so I actually put together my best tips and tricks for filtering on eBay here. Since it is paywalled... a little sneak peek below:
Thinking big picture: Sometimes there are items on eBay that might not be 100 percent perfect, but even with the cost to fix them, it’s still better than buying new. I think one of my favorite examples of this is buying sunglasses on eBay (which I’m sure most of you have heard me talk about). Frames are sold relatively inexpensively on eBay, and you can get great quality older frames for under $50. Bring them into an optical store near you and they should be able to add new lenses. I also have a tailor who I know and trust to help me fix things that may not be perfect. If you need a tailor recommendation in Brooklyn, let me know.
Measure against clothes you already own: This has saved me countless times. If you have a jacket or denim you love at home, measure that and compare it to the measurements listed.
Tina: My best tip for The Real Real is checking your saved searches at 7am, noon, and 4pm PT for new drops. It’s how I snagged my two favorite pairs of Agolde jeans at phenomenal prices. Another thing I love is the “similar items” function at the bottom of the product detail page. I’m in the market for a sheer skirt like this gorgeous one I saw on Div Ravindran, and using the “similar items” results is more curated than typing “sheer skirt” or “mesh skirt” into the search bar. I’m also very into the new sort by “most obsessed” feature since it helps me understand how likely something is to sell. If I really want it and it has a hundred hearts, I know I need to act fast. If it’s just me and a handful of other people, then I have time to wait for the price to drop. The RealReal: if you’re reading this, please launch a visual search tool for reverse image searching. It would be a game-changer.
Maggie: eBay is the one I use most and I actually wrote a newsletter detailing my shopping tactics! Not much has changed, honestly. My number one suggestion is to just look consistently. I start my day with a coffee and an eBay (and FB Marketplace) scroll. That's the only way to make sure you don't miss a gem.
Editor’s note: sharing more tips from
on how to score big on TRR.
Share some items living in your TRR graveyard.
Melanie: A Chloe dress I was really hoping to someday get married in. A pair of Dries Van Noten nylon printed heels, lots of Kallmeyer blazers and a Ralph Lauren suede jacket with the most beautiful fringe. I wasn't fast enough and I still think about these pieces!
Claire: Oh my gosh, there are probably thousands of things in there at this point. Recently the ones that got away that I’m especially sad about are a Bottega Python Pouch and a slew of vintage Armani blazers. I’ve thought many a time about building something that helps you find pieces from your graveyard — like a consistent saved search — maybe one day Future Reference will expand from just being focused on helping our users sell across resale marketplaces ;)
Nora: A brown leather bag from Bally that was so simple, which is exactly why it was so perfect.
Tina: This Frankie Shop sheer skirt (NWT no less) This black studded Isabel Marant belt (the best price I’ve seen all year and I let it slip through my fingers) This Ganni jacket (it has the vibes of this Ganni power suit that’s been on my mind for two years running) This Nanushka shirt that I’ve wanted ever since I saw it on Hollie Mercedes in 2022 (I wasn’t fast enough when the price dropped to $63) This Stand Studio jacket (too $$$, but I still dream about it)
Maggie: Oh my gosh, so much The Row, Lemaire, St. Agni, Lapointe, Tôteme, Rosetta Getty, Scanlan Theodore, Armani, Khaite, and Donna Karan that I can't fit in nor afford, but I love to use as inspiration for finding more affordable versions for the newsletter, the store, and myself.
Always look for off-season items — the best time to buy insane coats is in the summer! - Claire Ilmer, Founder of Future Reference
If resale sites were relationships — Swipe Right Now, Put a Ring on It, It’s Complicated — how would you categorize the ones you use most?
Melanie: Swipe Right Now - Le Bon Coin; Put a Ring on It - The Real Real; It’s Complicated - Vestiaire Collective
Claire: Swipe Right Now - The RealReal; Put a Ring on It - Future Reference!; It’s Complicated - Vestiaire Collective
Nora: Put a Ring On it: eBay; It's Complicated: The Real Real (at least for now); Swipe Right Now: Poshmark
Tina: Swipe Right Now - a tie between ThredUp and eBay; Put a Ring on It: The RealReal (always and forever); It’s Complicated - Vestiaire Collective (love the platform, hate the buyer fees)
Maggie: eBay is very much Put a Ring On It (it's my forever ride or die); The Real Real is Swipe Right Now (it's a lot of flash, excitement, and occasional total scores); and Poshmark is It's Complicated (a lawless land but filled with buried treasure).
Catch up with me @linkswesendfriends
Love being a part of this crew of cuckoo shoppers! I feel less alone!
So many faves all in one place!! Loved getting a peek into their brains